The old historical center of the city is situated four kilometres from the mainland, on 118 islands of the Venetian Lagoon.   (This is The Venice: the 19th and 20th century expansion on the mainland has no character in comparison.)  Venice is criss-crossed by more than 150 canals and 400 bridges, and is divided into 6 districts known as 'sestieri' (San Marco, Castello Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo, Dorsoduro).  Characteristic buildings look onto hundreds of small squares (campi and campielli) linked by narrow streets called calli. The municipal territory also includes the mainland areas of Mestre and Porto Marghera connected to the lagoon city by road and rail bridges. The lagoon centres of Burano, Murano, Lido, Cavallino, Malamocco, San Michele and Torcello are also administrated by Venice.

     Early historical information on Venice dates back to the fifth and sixth centuries when, to escape the Barbarian invasions, refugees from the Venetian countryside took shelter in the Lagoon.  At first, they were ruled by Maritime Tribunes then by the Doges (the first was Paolo Lucio Anafesto, in 697), gradually eluding Byzantine influence, partly as a result of the initiative of the inhabitants, who transformed it into an important trading centre for shipping in the Mediterranean and towards the Orient. Its importance increased during the Crusades, when it extended its rule over the Aegean islands, Peleponesia, Crete and part of Constantinople. Rivalry with Genoa and the other Italian maritime republics served only to
increase its strength which reached its peak  in the fifteenth century.

     In the same period, Venice increased its territories on the Venetian mainland, occupying Treviso, Padua, Vicenza and later Verona, Feltre, Belluno and Bassano (1404-1405), until in 1454, its boundaries stretched to the Adda river to the west,
and into Friuli to the east. The fall of Constantinople, however, and the discovery of America, marked the beginning of commercial and political decline for the Republic of Venice, culminating in the loss of independence ratified by the Treaty of Campoformio (1797), which gave Venice to Austria. After the Napoleonic period (1805-14) and the heroic events of
the Risorgimento (1848 uprising against the Austrians under the leadership of Daniele Manin) it was finally reunited with the Kingdom of Italy in 1866, following the Third War of Independence.

     It is a very difficult task to squeeze in a few lines the countless attractions that make Venice one of the world's most famous tourist cities. So here are a few - those that must absolutely not be ignored. First and foremost, Piazza San Marco, the traditional postcard scene of Venice with its famous cafés and surrounded by beautiful Renaissance buildings, with the Basilica of the same name, of Byzantine inspiration, (11th-15th century) overlooking the whole square. Nearby is Palazzo Ducale (14th-15th century), a typical example of Gothic-Venetian architecture, housing works by famous artists. By taking a boat on the Grand Canal, you admire the many noble Gothic-Venetian buildings overlooking the waters: Cà Foscari, Palazzo Giustinian, Palazzo Cornèr (Cà Grande), Palazzo Grimani, Palazzo Vendramin Calergi, the very famous Cà d'Oro and many others. The churches include Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (13th-14th century) housing works by Titian and Giambellino, S. Zanipolo, Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Renaissance), Santa Maria della Salute (17th century) with paintings by Titian and Tintoretto, San Giorgio Maggiore (17th century). The campi (the small squares) are of great environmental and artistic interest, always surrounded by buildings or churches worthy of a visit. Among others are Campo S. Moisè, S. Bartolomeo, S. Cassiano, S. Maria Mater Domini, S. Polo, S. Zulian, Saints Giovanni and Paolo (monument to Bartolomeo Colleoni). Lastly, you  must not fail to take a trip under the famous Ponte di Rialto and the even more famous Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs).

      So here we are in Venice - we have the choice to take a public water-bus - a vaporetto - or a taxi - motorboat - to drive along the Canale Grande - the main 'street'- passing all these fairy-tale palazzi. 

     Early in the morning, the city still sleeping, wait for the sunrise on Piazza San Marco, the main square, watch the beautiful setting of the the Basilica, the palace of the Doges, all the surrounding buildings and the waterfront with gondolas waiting for the first tourists. Slowly the sun is rising and Venice comes alive. A small bakery opens with warm croissants and cappuccino.

    Start walking through the mazeof  narrow streets across stone bridges, without a map - enjoying getting lost and discovering what square with a magificent pallace or cathedral will lurk behind the next corner .  There are yellow signs indicating the general directions, just in case you do get really lost.  But it really does not matter - there is so much to discover: photographer's heaven. 

One day is not enough.  One has to get into the Venice-mood: forget the outisde world, the industrial parks on the mainland, the ugly entrance the to historical center.  Here, there is seemingly no hurry, no cars, no parking meters to obey - just fabulous food, good wine, Vivaldi, and all sorts of architectural corners providing endless scenes for the occassional photographer. 

    There are cops in Venice.  They seem to worry primarily about the tie being straight and the Armani-esque dark-blue uniforms nicely pressed.  We wondered if - in the total absence of doughnut shops - they gather at Florian's at Piazza del Marco and drink espressi.  We remember seeing them making an arrest: a rose vendor on Piazza del Marco, being escorted away for some reason or other; two young cops - a man and a woman -  leading the "perp" away, gently holding his elbow, like a maitre d' leading a guest to a table at Antoine's.  This is Venice-mood.

Take a trip on a water bus to the neighboring island of Murano.  Passing a large cemetary with above-ground tombs, you realize that Venice - due to its sea-level location - has a lot it common with New Orleans.  Next, visit the glass-blowing factories and discover that the very first one, immediately next to the vaporetto stop is owned by a family with New Orleans ties.  We met Giancarlo, one of the owners, and foundout that, having been in the glass business in Murano for 600 years, the family has trong New Orleans ties: a Nawlins-native wife, children born at Touro hospital: we get talked easily into doing business with Giancarlo and impuls-buy and chandellier...  This is Venice-mood, too.

     And then you leave, and return to the real world: on a water-bus or taxi on the Grand Canal, or - after a few days navigating the narrow alleys of Venice like a native - back to your car at the parking garage.  Cross the causeway onto the mainland, dive into the heavy traffic on the A-4 Autostrada  from Milan to Udine and Klagenfurt, and Venice seems like a distant dream.
 
 

Here is a summary of the places one should see while in Venice:

Basilica di San Marco
     One of the most precious Christian relics, the body of St. Mark, was recovered by a miracle and, buried beneath the Basilica di San Marco. The church is a gem of Venice and a symbol of the power and wealth that Venice once attained. The outside is elaborately decorated with beautiful marble and amazing mosaics, including one from the 13th century. Inside there are an endless amount of mosaics on the walls and ceiling, which help to dim the natural light to create a mysterious, exotic atmosphere. Also inside is the Pala d'Oro which should not be missed, as the 10th-century golden alterpiece is embellished with nearly 2000 precious gems and 255 enameled panels. 

Palazzo Ducale
     The Doges Palace served as the official Venetian residence of the Doges, who were the elected officials of the former Venetian Republic. This splendid, Gothic-style palace was a showplace for the artistry, architecture and craftmanship of the day. In addition to living quarters, the palace contained offices, meeting rooms, law courts and its infamous prison cells, which are connected to the palace by the Bridge of Sighs. 

Canal Grande
     Illustrating the uniqueness of Venice, this great 'road of water' is the most beautiful street in Venice. One can glide along the Grand Canal and be surrounded by the most opulent architecture. The atmosphere is absolutely unforgettable, as the splendour of the Grand Canal is unparalleled. To meander along the canal by gondola is literally to take a journey through Venetian history. 

Galleria Dell' Accademia
     This amazing gallery contains the finest collection of Venetian art. You can see renowned works, such as 'Pieta' by Titian, 'The Tempest' by Giorgione, Veronese's 'Christ in the House of Levi', and Bellini's 'Madonna Enthroned'. 24 separate rooms house works by all the great Venetian artists. 

Ponte di Rialto
     Arched high over the Grand Canal, Ponte di Rialto is the most famous of the city's bridges. Built severn times, today's bridge was constructed by Antonio di Ponte in 1591. It is in the centre of the city's old trading area and trades such as wine, coal and iron are still reflected in the nearby street names. To this day, shops are strung along this famous bridge, selling jewellery, linens and Murano glass.

Chiesa dei Frari
     Due to the size and style of this massive church, Frari is often compared with the Church of San Giovanni e Paolo. The architecture displays fine detail around the plain brickwork, but due to the sheer size of the building it appears rather rigid and plain, although nonetheless pleasing to the eye. The outside appearance is reflective of the Franciscan lifestyle, which focused on spirituality and poverty. Inside, there are Venetian treasures including the extraordinary Titian altarpieces and Bellini¹s Madonna and Four Saints. 

Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni
     This structure was once a brotherhood devoted to charitable works. Here, between 1502 and 1507 AD Vittore Carpaccio painted an exceptionally interesting series of paintings, known as the Cycle of St. George. Other works of Carpaccio are also displayed, showing the beautiful colour and vitality ever present in his works. St. George and the Dragon is a favourite, as the painting demonstrates the romance and courage of heroic chivalry. 

Scuola di San Rocco
This school of painting is richly decorated with Tintoretto¹s mystically spiritualistic paintings from the 16th century. Tintoretto was skilled in embodying emotions into his paintings drawn from emotive chapters in the Bible. 

Ca' d' Oro
     This Venetian Gothic palace displays incredible opulence with its elegant Gothic architecture and décor. The mansion was given the name Ca' d'Oro or House of Gold because the façade was once gilded, but over time it has suffered from erosion. Through
restoration, the original majestic colours of the façade reflect in the Grand Canal once again. Ca' d' Oro houses the Franchetti Gallery, which is dedicated to Venetian Byzantine Art. Among this gallery¹s fine collection of paintings, sculptures and Flemish tapestries is the renowned Saint Sebastian by Mantegna.

Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
     Formerly known as the Campo delle Maravege (marvels), this square is appropriately full of wonderful sights. The grand sculpture by Verrocchio, Monumento di Bartolomeo Colleoni, now stands in the square. The infamous John Ruskin praised Verrocchio's
sculpture as 'one of the noblest works in Italy.' Also the largest church in Venice is located here; the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo.

Santa Maria della Salute
     The Ciesa di Santa Maria della Salute is a famous Venetian landmark, guarding the entrance to the Grand Canal. After the 1630 plague subsided, this gigantic, white, domed 17th­century church was designed by Longhena and officially dedicated to Our Lady of
Good Health. This majestic church demonstrates serenity and grandeur through its bold Baroque architectural style.

Ca' Rezzonico
     This gigantic Baroque mansion contains the most dazzling ballroom in Venice. Also inside is the Museo del Settecento Veneziano, which is home to a number of fine pieces from 18th-century Venetian artists, including an admirable series of frescoes by Tiepolo.¹

Chiesa di San Sebastiano
     Rich decoration embellishes the inside of this 16th-century church where the painter Veronese established his reputation by painting amazing frescoes whilst still in his twenties. Veronese continued to produce astounding works within the church, throughout his
career and was eventually buried here. The opulent nature of Veronese¹s art beautifies the church and makes it so unique. 

Chiesa di San Zaccaria
     This is a wonderful church built in the 15th century and incorporates the former 9th-century church that was originally on this site. The inside is literally covered with paintings including Bellini¹s 'Sacra Conversazione' and Tiepolo's 'Flight into Egypt'. 

Sources: Windows on Italy, Surprise Talks about Life
 
 

Last updated October 28, 2001